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Skopje – Macedonia

We drove into Skopje, passing the Skopje Fortress which was originally built by the Byzantines in the 6th century. After the 1963 Skopje earthquake, that destroyed 80% of the city, the fortress’s circular, rectangular and square towers were conserved and restored. It is today one of the most popular tourist spots in the city. We just had a quick look as we drove past. The option was to use your lunch time in racing over to the fortress and ‘Old Town’ to have a quick look, or stay in the town centre and casually eat at one of the many restaurants. We chose the latter.

Our view of the fortress from the bus window
Our view of the fortress from the bus window

In 2010, the Macedonian government launched the “Skopje 2014” project which aims to give a more monumental appearance to the capital. It made plans to erect a large number of statues, fountains, bridges, and museums at a cost of about €500 million. As we walked towards the town centre we saw many of these statues. Honestly, I thought the town had overdone it a bit. There were statues everywhere and often right next to each other!

I'm in front of the bridge filled with statues
I’m in front of the bridge filled with statues
Statues and lights on the bridge
Statues and lights on the bridge. I wonder if they are copying Rome?
Another view of the buildings, bridge and statues
Another view of the buildings, bridge and statues
This building has statues across the top
This building has statues across the top
Our tour party listening to our guide talking about the statues
Our tour party listening to our guide talking about the statues
Yes that's me on the bridge
Yes that’s me on the bridge
This is the old stone bridge built between 1461-1469. The statue of the women diving is at the base of the bridge
This is the old stone bridge built between 1461-1469. The statue of the women diving is at the base of the bridge
Statue of diving into the river?
Statue of diving into the river?
This statue looks like men of all sorts of trade?
This statue looks like men of all sorts of trade?
The statue and the old stone bridge... and me!
The statue and the old stone bridge… and me!
A shopping statue?
A shopping statue?
Warrior on a horse statue
Warrior on a horse statue

There are several landmarks of Mother Teresa in Skopje, the city of her birth and childhood, including a marker of her birthplace, a statue, and a memorial house. As of January 2013, Macedonian authorities laid the ground work for a new 30-metre-high statue dedicated to the Nobel Prize-winning nun.

The Mother Thereza memorial plaque
The Mother Thereza memorial plaque

And after our walk through the many statues we have lunch.

Waiting for our lunch
Waiting for our lunch

So Skopje was really only our lunch spot. There were many more sights we could have seen. There was on Old Town to discover and also a very old Aqueduct and of course the Fortress, but time was against us, as we had Sofia yet to explore.

So onwards we go!!!

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Ohrid – Macedonia

Before we head on to Lake Ohrid, we stay in Albania for the night at a place called Tirana. Tirana really was just a stopover and not a place where we did a lot of sight seeing. We arrived late and then we were up early to travel on. We all went for a short self guided walking tour, and decided that Tirana really didn’t have a lot to offer tourists, apart from a place to lay our heads.

And we are all off to discover a little of Tirana
And we are all off to discover a little of Tirana
A quick photo stop!
A quick photo stop!
We really only walked a block or two when it started to drizzle
We really only walked a block or two when it started to drizzle
A lot of places were in need of repair
A lot of places were in need of repair

And then it was back on the bus and time to move on to Macedonia. We went through a tunnel that saved us 45 minutes of driving via Elbasan. Its infrastructure was constructed by Chinese.

Tirana to Ohrid
Tirana to Ohrid

We also stopped to look at some of the bunkers that had been built along the roadside. I can’t imagine how they would keep people safe and how long people were expected to stay in them?

The hill behind Robin was scattered with bunkers. You can see a few of them.
The hill behind Robin was scattered with bunkers. You can see a few of them.

From Wikipedia

During the nearly forty-year leadership of Communist ruler Enver Hoxha of the People’s Socialist Republic of Albania, over 700,000 bunkers were built in the country – one for every four inhabitants. The bunkers are still a ubiquitous sight in Albania, with an average of 24 bunkers for every square kilometre of the country.

Hoxha’s programme of “bunkerisation” resulted in the construction of bunkers in every corner of Albania, from mountain passes to city streets. They had little military value and were never used for their intended purpose during the years of Communist rule (1945–1990). The cost of constructing them was a drain on Albania’s resources, diverting them away from more pressing needs, such as dealing with the country’s housing shortage and poor roads.

The bunkers were abandoned following the collapse of communism in 1990. Most are now derelict, though some have been reused for a variety of purposes including residential accommodation, cafés, storehouses and shelters for animals or the homeless. A few briefly saw use in the Balkan conflicts of the 1990s.

Another ridiculous decision and a total waste of money!

Our nights stay was at Ohrid at one of our not so flash hotels, but it was still a very pleasant place to stay.

We wandered through narrow paths between old but picturesque buildings
We wandered through narrow paths between old but picturesque buildings
Robin looking at the narrow streets ahead
Robin looking at the narrow streets ahead
We stopped at a handmade paper shop
We stopped at a handmade paper shop
And we watched the paper making process
And we watched the paper making process
We looked over the fence at a very old church
We looked over the fence at a very old church
The brick wall outside the church
The brick wall outside the church
And we wandered to the next church. Here is a model of it
And we wandered to the next church. Here is a model of it
And a photo of Robin at the church
And a photo of Robin at the church
It was a fabulous old building with a roof that needed to be photographed ;-)
It was a fabulous old building with a roof that needed to be photographed 😉
Very old stonework!
Very old stonework!
We were sitting and listening to the guide talk about the church
We were sitting and listening to the guide talk about the church

After a walking tour with a local guide, we found our own way back to the Hotel and it was a lovely walk along the lakeside. Unfortunately we didn’t take any photos of the lake??? I really don’t know how that happened. It was quite lovely! Oh… I found one! Don’t laugh!

The lake view!
The lake view!

And another three. I told you it was quite nice… and I remembered why we didn’t take too many photos as when we arrived it was raining!

Looking towards the old town and restaurants with Lake Ohrid behind
Looking towards the old town and restaurants with Lake Ohrid behind
The other direction
The other direction
Our Hotel was around the bay a little walk away
Our Hotel was around the bay a little walk away

That evening we had a special tea with drink provided to thank those people among our tour that have travelled with ‘Insight Vacations’ many times. It was a pleasant evening with lots of laughter and shared stories. We were starting to get to know each other much better and were getting more relaxed. It was nice 🙂

 

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Kotor – Montenegro

Today is day 9 of our tour and we are traveling from Dubrovnik to Tirana in Albania. If we traveled continuously it would be a 5 hour drive.

Approximately a 5 hour drive by car :-)
Approximately a 5 hour drive by car 🙂

Now to place these countries, and the cities we have visited or are going to visit, I have copied another couple of photos to help you.

The places we have stayed, and are staying at :-)
The places we have stayed, and are staying at 🙂
The Balkans with the surrounding European countries
The Balkans with the surrounding European countries

But today we were lucky enough to break our trip after an hour and 40 minutes, with a stop at the very picturesque town of Kotor, Montenegro.

Dubrovnik to Kotor
Dubrovnik to Kotor

Okay… Now look at the map and see the bay that we had to travel around to get to Kotor. What a fabulous drive! There was a quicker route that we could have taken and that was by ferry, but then we would have missed out on some lovely winding roads, and some of the most beautiful scenery. We stopped and took a few photos on the way.

Kotor Bay behind me with the sea area we had already driven past
Kotor Bay behind me with the sea area we had already driven past
Robin and I with the beautiful bay behind us
Robin and I with the beautiful bay behind us
Our Tour Bus
Our Tour Bus
This photo is actually taken from the bus window. The water looked amazing.
This photo is actually taken from the bus window. The water looked amazing.

And then we arrived at Kotor! Wow…just wow!

A little help again from Wikipedia…

Kotor is a coastal town in Montenegro. It is located in a secluded part of the Gulf of Kotor and has a population of 13,510. Kotor has one of the best preserved medieval old towns in the Adriatic and is a UNESCO world heritage site. It is home to numerous sights, such as the Cathedral of Saint Tryphon in the old town (built in 1166), and the ancient walls which stretch for 4.5 km (3 mi) directly above the city.

The old Mediterranean port of Kotor is surrounded by fortifications built during the Venetian period. It is located on the Bay of Kotor, one of the most indented parts of the Adriatic Sea. Some have called it the southern-most fjord in Europe, but it is a ria, a submerged river canyon. Together with the nearly overhanging limestone cliffs of Orjen and Lovćen, Kotor and its surrounding area form an impressive and picturesque Mediterranean landscape.

This is the first thing we saw

The Hills in the distance and the city wall beside us
The Hills in the distance and the city wall beside us
A better view without me!
A better view without me!

And way up in the hills behind us is The church of our lady of health.

You can see the church directly above the building with the three windows in the roof
You can see the church directly above the building with the three windows in the roof
And more walls even higher
And more walls even higher

But walking in the old town within the walls was fabulous. It reminded me of Dubrovnik but seemed even older, and with the hill behind us with a track that you can walk up, I wished we could have stayed and explored all day.

Part of the city wall by the entrance gate
Part of the city wall by the entrance gate
Looking at the walls and beyond
Looking at the walls and beyond
Our tour group outside the entrance
Our tour group outside the entrance
Walking through the entrance you see this and also some writing. The writing says "What belongs to others we don't want, what is ours we will never surrender.
Walking through the entrance you see this and also some writing. The writing says “What belongs to others we don’t want, what is ours we will never surrender.
As we enter this is what we saw :-)
As we enter this is what we saw 🙂
Just amazing!
Just amazing!
What a fabulous backdrop for a photo
What a fabulous backdrop for a photo
We explore the Old Town
We explore the Old Town

And we discover some sights you just don’t see everyday!

Just look at this!
Just look at this!
No cars in here so this bike is used to transport goods
No cars in here so this bike is used to transport goods
I love these old towns
I love these old towns
Imagine living here!
Imagine living here!

Teresa and I decided to start to climp the track up the hill. We only had a very short time but we knew we would get the best view of the Old Town from higher up.

The start of the track up the hill
The start of the track up the hill
Looking back at Teresa
Looking back at Teresa
Looking down over the wall
Looking down over the wall
Another view looking down... Amazing huh!
Another view looking down… Amazing huh!
And now looking out across the town
And now looking out across the town
And we climbed even higher
And we climbed even higher
And we got even better views
And we got even better views
Now it was worth the climb just to see this!
Now it was worth the climb just to see this!

 

Now isn't that a beautiful sight!
Now isn’t that a beautiful sight!

In recent years, Kotor has seen a steady increase in tourists, many of them coming by cruise ship. Visitors are attracted both by the natural beauty of the Gulf of Kotor and by the old town of Kotor. In the photo above you can see the old with the new!

Kotor was definitely worth the break in our trip.

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Day 8 – A visit to Cavtat and a Dinner Cruise

So far we have had eight wonderful stress free days. That is what I love most about a Bus Tour. All the planning is done for you. We just wake up in the morning, and if it is a day when we are on the move, it is just a matter of getting our bag out the Hotel room door by around 7.30am, and from then on our main task is following the Tour Directors instructions. We visit the best tourist attractions, the entry fee is included in the tour cost, and most days the lunch and/or the evening meal is also included. We get the most information possible about every town and attraction that we are visiting, we get guided tours through the towns, and we also get enough free time to discover a few things by ourselves.

The walk around the wall at Dubrovnik was something we chose to do, and it proved a great decision. Other people from our tour decided to take the gondola up the hill at Dubrovnik and see the views from that super high position. They came back with great reports as well.

During the day we selected an add on tour to a nearby town called Cavtat. A lovely little seaside town that has a  half hour walk around the little beaches. The little township was the place for us to have our lunches at a restaurant of our choice.

Across the water in the distance is Dubrovnik
Across the water in the distance is Dubrovnik
The lovely little harbour
The lovely little harbour
One of the little swim beaches
One of the little swim beaches
The walkway
The walkway

The day was beautiful and hot and there were several people enjoying a swim in the warm Adriatic sea. As we walked around I remembered the wonderful feeling that I felt from diving off a boat and swimming in the Mediterranean Sea at The Isle of Capri last year on our ‘Grand tour of Italy and Sicily’. Judy Teresa and I sat with our feet dangling in the sea, savouring the moment, when the decision was made that we would have a swim in the Adriatic!

Feet dangling in and being tempted to jump in
Feet dangling in and being tempted to jump in
Teresa, Lisa and myself were the only ones brave enough to jump in
Teresa, Lisa and myself were the only ones brave enough to jump in
The water was lovely and warm and very salty
The water was lovely and warm and very salty
The secluded place where we swam in our bra and undies!
The secluded place where we swam in our bra and undies!

The swim was fantastic! We ate lunch sitting in our clothes with wet underwear underneath but it didn’t matter in the least. The experience was enough to put up with any discomfort.

That evening we went out for a dinner cruise off Dubrovnik. A few others from the tour (and us three as well) were going to go for a another swim. This time jumping off the boat. The only reason why we didn’t was the fact the there was no ladder, the boat sat high up in the water, and the crew was going to have to pull us back onto the boat! It was hard enough for me to get back up on land from the swim earlier in the day. I couldn’t imagine getting my body dragged up the side of the boat and try to look glamorous as well, so I decided against it. So did the others!

This was the boat we had our tea on
This was the boat we had our tea on

We left Dubrovnik and sailed to a very still bay and had a super meal together. It was such a treat.

Just leaving the harbour
Just leaving the harbour
Our Captain telling us about the evening, and the alcohol :-)
Our Captain telling us about the evening, and the alcohol 🙂
Some of our traveling buddies
Some of our traveling buddies
Me, Teresa and Judy
Me, Teresa and Judy
Eating our nibbles and celebrating the night
Eating our nibbles and celebrating the night
And we are off to sea
And we are off to sea
A very enjoyable time was had by all
A very enjoyable time was had by all
Our meal arrives (Judy and Len)
Our meal arrives (Judy and Len)
Robin and me with our Dinner
Robin and me with our Dinner
Coming back in past Dubrovnik
Coming back in past Dubrovnik
Close up of the fortress
Close up of the fortress
Another view of the wall surrounding the Old Town of Dubrovnik
Another view of the wall surrounding the Old Town of Dubrovnik
Coming in to Berth at Dubrovnik
Coming in to Berth at Dubrovnik
The lovely sunset
The lovely sunset
Dubrovnik harbour
Dubrovnik harbour

What a fabulous evening, and we all slept peacefully and with such happy memories of the day.

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Dubrovnik – Croatia

Dubrovnik is what George Bernard Shaw described as ‘Paradise on Earth’. I personally had never heard of the place, but having now seen it, I will never forget it. Imagine an old town with stone paved streets, houses down each side and all looking similar, and the whole place encircled with high stone walls and 16th century bastions. Then imagine a narrow path on top of the wall where you can walk around the town and look down on the roofs and streets. And then adding to the picture in your mind, put the whole place along the seafront. Can you picture it?

IMG_0627
Dubrovnik – with the old town and wall surrounding it near the sea
Happily getting our photo taken with Dubrovnik and the Adriatic Sea as the backdrop
Happily getting our photo taken with Dubrovnik and the Adriatic Sea as the backdrop

The walls run almost 2 km around the city. They are from four to six meters thick on the landward side but are much thinner on the seaward side. The system of turrets and towers were intended to protect the vulnerable city. The walls of Dubrovnik have also been a popular filming site for HBO’s Game Of Thrones for the fictional city of Kings Landing.

Walking along the wall with other tourists on a beautiful sunny day
Walking along the wall with other tourists on a beautiful sunny day
One of the staircases to the wall walk
One of the staircases to the wall walk
And the view going back down!
And the view going back down!

The moment we arrived at the city gates we were in awe!

The bridge to the old town
The bridge to the old town
Entering into Old Town Dubrovnik
Entering into Old Town Dubrovnik
Looking down main street
Looking down main street
Look at the people walking around the wall
Look at the people walking around the wall behind me
Fabulous buildings. Any renovations done and the colour and stone has to be exactly the same
Fabulous buildings. Any renovations done and the paint colour and stone has to be exactly the same
St Blaise's church
St Blaise’s church
Probably the town Hall with the clock
Probably the town Hall with the clock
Fabulous roof view
Fabulous roof view
Look at those pillars
Look at those pillars
Looking fabulous at night
Looking fabulous at night
Look at the architecture!
Look at the architecture!
On of the many steps to the outer houses
One of the many steps to the outer houses
The steps with the lower foot built in so the ladies ankles couldn't be seen by gentlemen (Obviously not from this era)
The steps with the lower foot built in so the ladies ankles couldn’t be seen by gentlemen below (Obviously not from this era)
The church at night
The church at night
The night sky at Dubrovnik
The night sky at Dubrovnik

As you can gather walking around Dubrovnik was an awesome experience. What you can’t see from the photos was the even smaller streets going off in all directions and all the little shops about the place. The walk around the wall was definitely the highlight of the day though. The roof tops and the distant views were wonderful.

Now prepare yourself. There are way too many photos, but they were all so good I couldn’t take any out. If you want a better look at a photo just click on it and it will open up as a bigger photo…. it may take a while to load though…. but will be worth it 🙂

The start of our walk around the wall
The start of our walk around the wall
The houses behind us were ones that are part of Dubrovnik but not in the old town
The houses behind us were ones that are part of Dubrovnik but not in the old town
Robin on the wall walk
Robin on the wall walk
Going up one of the turrets
Going up one of the turrets
Some of the staircases were very steep
Some of the staircases were very steep
The wall meandering through the town
The wall meandering through the town
They just look amazing
They just look amazing
Another view of the roofs of the old town
Another view of the roofs of the old town
Looking across the old town from the wall
Looking across the old town from the wall
One of the turrets
One of the turrets
IMG_0514
Look at the crowd! It got busier as the day went on. Can you see Robin?
Judy enjoying the day at Dubrovnik
Judy enjoying the day at Dubrovnik
Looking down into someones home. She is doing her ironing :-)
Looking down into someones home. She is doing her ironing 🙂
Looking towards the fortress
Looking towards the fortress
The view from one of the highest points
The view from one of the highest points
Another view from the highest point
Another view from the highest point
From a turret window
From a turret window
The view to the fortress
The view to the fortress
From a turret looking out over the harbour
From a turret looking out over the harbour
From a turret looking out to the town
From a turret looking out to the town
A view of the people on main street in the old town
A view of the people on main street in the old town
Looking down at the water fountain
Looking down at the water fountain

Yes I know…. way too many photos. I did say I couldn’t delete any as they are all amazing! Thank goodness we have super Cameras to record these moments for us all to enjoy over and over again.

I have a short video of Dubrovnik for you to look at! Enjoy 🙂

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Mostar – Bosnia and Herzegovina

Okay… so here is a map to show you where we now, well for this blog post anyway. We started at Budapest, traveled down to Belgrade, then onto Sarajevo and now we arrive at Mostar.

The map... just for information on where we are :-)
The map… just for information on where we are 🙂

Our final destination for the day was to be Dubrovnik. We had already stopped at Jablanica, and for lunch we were to have a very special treat. Not only great food but a fantastic place to eat as well.
Facebook has a page called ‘Places to see before you die’ and I often see pictures of places and things that I think would be just amazing to visit and see with my own eyes. About six months earlier I saw a photo of a very high bridge and the surrounding town looked very old. I tagged Judy (my sister) on the photo and wrote “I wonder if we will get to see this place?” Well… Mostar was that place, and yes! This was our lunch destination. I was so excited and very happy. When you see the photos you will understand why!
The beautiful white stone bridge had stood since the Ottoman Turks had built it in 1566. In November, 1993, it was blown up during the Bosnian war, but as it was a World Heritage site, it was fully restored and finished in 2004.

The Bridge
The Bridge

At the top of the arch of the bridge two handsome and tanned men stood collecting money from tourists in the dare that if they got a sufficient amount, they would jump. The Neretva river is such that the deepest and safest place to jump was a very small area. So the excitement that the men would build before they jumped the 70 feet into the water, was part of their act and of entertaining the tourists. I think they hoped we would all pay more for another jump!

The two men seeinng funds for the jump
The two men seeking funds for the jump
One of the men about to jump
One of the men about to jump
On his way down!
On his way down!
Ans he safely lands and swims to the riverside
And he safely lands and swims to the riverside
View downstream
View downstream
Fabulous view upstream
Fabulous view upstream
The spectators/tourists on and beside the bridge
The spectators/tourists on and beside the bridge

The little town itself was spectacular enough. It would still be worth the visit even without the bridge jump! A narrow stone road led to the bridge which has the largest stone arch span of 28 metres. Along each side of the road were little shops selling colourful silks, weaved fabric, copper articles, souvenirs and lace.

Looking down the market street
Looking down the market street
A closer look at some of the shops
A closer look at some of the shops
A very Turkish man at his shop
A very Turkish man at his shop
Yep! We are good posers :-)
Yep! We are good posers 🙂

We had so many restaurants to chose from but decided on one that overlooked the river. Eating our lunch while looking at the bridge and the amazing view the area offered was definitely a ‘pinch me’ moment. I couldn’t believe we were lucky enough to be at that very spot!

The view from where we had our lunch
The view from where we had our lunch
Look at those buildings!
Look at those buildings!
Closer up view!
Closer up view!
Love the pink buildings in amongst the other buildings
Love the pink buildings in amongst the other buildings

On a serious note though, the young girl who showed us our seats at our restaurant has lived in Mostar all her life, she was 17. I said to her that she must be delighted to live in such a pretty town. Her response was that there was no work available, only the tourist trade and she didn’t get full time work at that. She also said that it was very seasonal work and for much of the year they had no income. And she couldn’t get an opportunity to advance herself without money or education. Tugged at my heart strings I can tell you! The town also still bears the wounds from the Bosnia war and many buildings still needed repair.

A building by our bus stop. Still bearing scars from the Bosnian war!
A building by our bus stop. Still bearing scars from the Bosnian war!
I think this is just an old building on our walk to the bridge
I think this is just an old building on our walk to the bridge

I loved Mostar! I hope that you can get an idea of how amazing it is by the photos. If you click on the photo you will get a larger view. They take awhile to upload as they are very good quality, but worth it for a better picture.

Enjoy looking and feel free to leave a comment 🙂

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Jablanica – Bosnia and Herzegovina

Well Jablanica wasn’t our final destination for the day but was a great place to stop for a walk and visit through the museum.

From Wikipedia…

During the Battle of the Neretva in 1943, Jablanica was the site of a successful raid by a group of Partisans led by Josip Broz Tito. A rail bridge over the river was blown up while a train was in the middle of crossing. There is a park and monument commemorating this action at the site. The bridge section and the locomotive which can still be seen in the river gorge are the remains of a film set depicting the battle, from the 1960s.

We are standing outside the museum
We are standing outside the museum
Downstream from the bridge
Downstream from the bridge
Upstream :-)
Upstream 🙂
Robin at the train
Robin at the train
Old war gun!
Old war gun!

As soon as we got off the bus we were met by Gypsy beggars. It’s very sad to see so many people that are really struggling to survive. Rubbish was never a problem in the past for this area but with society changing to using more plastic containers and bags, the gypsys have begun a trade as rubbish collectors. We didn’t see them doing this so much at Jablanica, but we did see horse drawn carts in other towns and being filled with rubbish.

Horse drawn rubbish collection carts
Horse drawn rubbish collection carts

Before we got back on the bus we all wandered through the local market. Fresh fruit and veges, cheeses and believe it not stalls like a families garage sale… used clothing and furniture etc., were all being sold.

Beautiful home grown fresh vegetables
Beautiful home grown fresh vegetables
Judy and Len wandering through the market
Judy and Len wandering through the markey

All too soon it was back on the bus and on the road to the next city. For those of us who had never been to Mostar before, we were in for a real treat. One amazing place I tell you!

Wait until you see the photos 🙂

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Sarajevo – A Home Hosted Dinner!

You would think that we had already had a very good overview of Sarajevo buy reading my previous Blog post, but no…. there is more! The next part of our visit was just the best! We chose to do this add on tour right at the start of the holiday purely because of the write up on the ‘Insight Vacations’ brochure… And we weren’t disappointed. It was a very memorable experience and the food was delicious!

SARO6 HOME HOSTED DINNER
A unique and rewarding in sight into the local way of life.
Small groups of 5 or 6 guests are invited into a Sarajevan
family home for a welcome drink and dinner. Savour the
warm hospitality and authentic cuisine as you hear
inspirational stories about their culture and recent
struggles. Dinner is typical of the region, usually soup,
stuffed vegetables and kebabs. Wine, beer, or fruit juice is
also included. Coffee or tea with baklava is served for
dessert.

Only 24 of us chose this experience and we all thought it was one of the best experiences we had had so far this tour. It was the easiest way to discover exactly what life was like for the average Sarajevan citizen during the four years of the Bosnian war from 1992-1996, and also what their everyday life is like now!

A very typical housing block. The building to the left is where we went for our hosted dinner.
A very typical housing block. The building to the left is where we went for our hosted dinner.
Standing at the entrance of the housing block, waiting for our turn to use the lift. We went up to the 12th (or 13th) floor.
Standing at the entrance of the housing block, waiting for our turn to use the lift. We went up to the 12th (or 13th) floor.

Now! None of us should ever moan about our living conditions or the size of our house. We New Zealanders are extremely spoilt (well the majority are anyway). We usually have separate houses with two or three bedrooms (maybe more), and with a grassed lawn area in front and behind. Some of us live in apartments or blocks of flats but they are usually still quite roomy and very comfortable. Our host family have lived in their one bedroom, very small apartment for 35 years! the couple brought up their three children there! Two boys and a girl! can you imagine two very active little boys growing up with no room to run around and play? I had four sons and I know that they need space for getting rid of energy and they also make lots of noise! The husband was working night shift as a customs officer, and the daughter who lives at home still with her two young sons, was at work also. So the mother not only cooked, was our hostess for the evening, but also looked after her two grandsons as well! What an amazing lady! She smiled the whole time and didn’t appear stressed at all! And the boys demanded her attention very often!

The lady in the blue top and glasses is our host. She has the older grandson on her knee
The lady in the blue top and glasses is our host. She has the older grandson on her knee
Nera our interpreter is busy answering our thousand questions!
Nera our interpreter is busy answering our thousand questions!

You can see that we are sitting in the dining room, at the table, ready to start our dinner. What you can’t see is that the chairs are right up against the wall. The door to the left leads to a small lounge room. This is also the bedroom for the daughter and her two sons (the daughter is recently divorced and has moved back home). At the entrance is a very small hallway which has the one bedroom to the right and the bathroom to the left. The door behind our host leads to her very narrow tiny kitchen. It has the sink bench (with dishwasher….yay) one side and fridge and stove on the other. The doors open back onto the fridge and the stove! Arghhhh…. what a kitchen to work in! and for 35 years! How does she do it????? The kitchen also leads out to a very tiny deck which as she explained to us is used for drying washing and also storage! But she served us the most delicious meal!

Now doesn't this look yummy!
Now doesn’t this look yummy! The stuffed grape vine leaves and onions are very traditional food. They are both stuffed with minced meat.
Waiting to get started!
Waiting to get started!

During the war years our host family had young children including a baby. She told us that there was no easy access to running water and washing nappies was a major problem. Sickness was also a huge challenge. Natural remedies were often the only medicine available and that people just adjusted lives to the situation they were in. The neighbours all knew and supported each other and rallied together to help meet each others needs. They also shared in each others sorrows when family members or friends were either killed or injured in the war. They became very practical and would use any available ground for growing vegetables and mostly ate what they grew. The staple diet was rice provided by the UN, and Nera said that after four years of eating rice, she chooses to avoid rice at every occasion nowdays! The interesting thing was that as a child Nera said that war for her was a fun time. She didn’t attend school the whole four years and her game of choice was collecting the empty gun shells along with all her friends!

The stair well. It was actually quite scary!
The stair well. It was actually quite scary!

After our fabulous meal and very informative conversation, it was time to get back to the Hotel. The exiting experience very exciting. We were 12 floors up and the lift just simply didn’t come, no matter how many times we pushed the button! So the decision was to walk down, and that is also very normal for the inhabitants of this housing building. The light is a timed light and we had to push the button at each floor because if you didn’t, the whole stair well would be in complete darkness! This happened on our first lot of stairs as we were all talking. Nera felt her way to the next switch in darkness while we stood in shock as it was so dark! And they have lived here for 35 years!!!!!

We all need to remember the living situations of others less fortunate and be so very thankful for all we have. Never take our life for granted! We are extremely blessed!

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Sarajevo – Bosnia and Herzegovina

Now describing our time in Sarajevo is going to be very emotional for me! Talk about a city that has suffered so much destruction!

The whole city is still covered in scars and those are the visual ones. I believe the people are still learning to live with the consequences of the war, and those scars that it left are not so visual! Our local tour guide Nera was only seven when the war started and she shared many of her experiences with us. She remembered eating only pasta, rice, and American rations, no salt or sugar for 4 years.

Many many buildings stand tall with the evidence of war firmly engraved in their walls. This is just one photo.... sadly there are many more buildings that can be recorded!
Many many buildings stand tall with the evidence of war firmly engraved in their walls. This is just one photo…. sadly there are many more buildings that can be recorded!

Sarajevo is the capital and largest city of Bosnia and Herzegovina. The city is nestled within the greater Sarajevo valley of Bosnia, it is surrounded by the Dinaric Alps and situated along the Miljacka River. Unfortunately it’s position in the valley made it easy for the Serb forces to surround it, and very difficult for the people to protect themselves and also to get out safely.

The Bosnian War for independence lasted from the 5th of April 1992 to the 29th of February 1996. The city’s residents endured 175 artillery shells falling each and every day! During the siege, 11,541 people lost their lives, including over 1,500 children. An additional 56,000 people were wounded, including nearly 15,000 children. How extremely sad 🙁

From our hotel window we could see the surrounding mountains and sensed a little of how vulnerable Sarajevo was.

We were quite high up so could see for quite a distance
We were quite high up so could see for quite a distance
If you look closely at the end of the building in this photo, you can see the scars from the shootings
If you look closely at the end of the building in this photo, you can see the scars from the shootings
Sarajevo is low in the valley. Thankfully though it has the river running through so it has access to water.
Sarajevo is low in the valley. Thankfully though it has the river running through so it has access to water, but only in the old town centre.

We commenced our Sarajevo discovery with a walking tour through the old city. Narrow marbled streets with little shops, cafes and restaurants, and churches of every denomination.

Some of our tour party as we wandered the little streets of the Old City
Some of our tour party as we wandered the little streets of the Old City
Discovering Sarajevo
Discovering Sarajevo

A Quote from Wikipedia…

“The city is famous for its traditional cultural and religious diversity, with adherents of Islam, Judaism and Catholicism Orthodoxy, coexisting there for centuries. Due to this long and rich history of religious and cultural variety, Sarajevo was sometimes called the “Jerusalem of Europe”or “Jerusalem of the Balkans”. It was, until recently in the 20th century, the only major European city to have a mosque, Catholic church, Orthodox church and synagogue within the same neighborhood”.

I think this is one of the churches???
This is the Orthodox cathedral.
And I think this is a Catholic Church
This is the Roman Catholic Cathedral
This fence surrounds the courtyard of the Mosque
This fence surrounds the courtyard of the Mosque
The inside of the Mosque
The inside of the Mosque
The ceiling of the Mosque
The ceiling of the Mosque
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A model of the old Synagogue
The inside of the Synagogue
The inside of the Synagogue
Inside the Synagogue again
Inside the Synagogue again
A BIG book containing all the names of the Jewish people who died in the war.
A BIG book containing all the names of the Jewish people who died in the war.

Along the pavement through the city are  plaques with red paint splattered on them to show the ‘rivers of blood’ that ran down the streets ! A memorial of lives lost fighting for this nation!

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We stopped at a local restaurant for lunch and sampled some of the local food. Little mincemeat sausages in a bread like a panini and served with a yoghurt drink. They were actually very nice.

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Waiting for our lunch 🙂
Our lunch
Our lunch

We wandered further and then were given a Turkish coffee each to sample. It was very strong with all the coffee grindings at the bottom…. almost like sand!

We were given a tray with our little coffee pots and sugar lumps. You can see the coffee silt floating on top!
We were given a tray with our little coffee pots and sugar lumps. You can see the coffee silt floating on top!
Sitting at the Turkish Coffee house
Sitting at the Turkish Coffee house
Inside one of the shops
Inside one of the shops

During our stay in Sarajevo we also went out to the historic site of the Sarajevo Tunnel – Known as the ‘Tunnel of life’. Wikipedia describes this tunnel far better than I can…

“The Sarajevo Tunnel was constructed between May 1992 and November 1995, during the Siege of Sarajevo in the midst of the Bosnian War. It was built by the Bosnian Army in order to link the city of Sarajevo, which was entirely cut-off by Serbian forces, with Bosnian-held territory on the other side of the Sarajevo Airport, an area controlled by the United Nations. The tunnel linked the Sarajevo neighbourhoods of Dobrinja and Butmir, allowing food, war supplies, and humanitarian aid to come into the city, and people to get out. The tunnel became a major way of bypassing the international arms embargo and providing the city defenders with weaponry”

Our tour group outside the house where the tunnel was built. Notice the gun shot damage to the house!
Our tour group outside the house where the tunnel was built. Notice the gun shot damage to the house!
The map of Sarajevo
The map of Sarajevo
Close up of the map showing the tunnel position
Close up of the map showing the tunnel position
Our local tour guide describing the movements through the tunnel
Our local tour guide describing the movements through the tunnel
Equipment that helped transport goods through the tunnel
Equipment that helped transport goods through the tunnel
We walked through the part of the tunnel that is still open to the public
We walked through the part of the tunnel that is still open to the public

My niece Teresa, who was on the tour with us had just finished reading the book ‘Goodbye Sarajevo’ (by Atka Reid and Hana Schofield).  Everything we saw there just meant so much more to her as the events of the war are well described in the book. I was so impressed with her knowledge that I downloaded the book on my Kindle and started reading it straight away. I have finished reading it now and highly recommend it as a ‘Must read book’. Please comment this post and let me know what you think about it once you have read it too 🙂 Of course a trip to Sarajevo completes it nicely 🙂

We also experienced a meal with a local family….. but that is another story and a great one at that! Sarajevo part two will follow 🙂

 

 

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Topola, Serbia

Okay… Wikipedia is going to be very helpful here.

While in Belgrade we went out to a place called Oplenac. We climbed a steep hill to see the amazing St George’s Church known also as Oplenac Church and Oplenac Mausoleum, it is the Mausoleum of the Serbian and Yugoslav Royal House of Karadordevic located on top of the Hill Oplenac in the city of Tolopa, Serbia. The Foundation in Oplenac is named after King Peter 1 of Yugoslavia. Our guide Milos filled us in on the history of the place. I got lost in the details! but I also got lost in the magnificance of the place. The inside was just amazing! I’m sure the photos won’t do it justice…. but I have to share the place with you somehow!

Does the strain of the climb show on our faces?
Does the strain of the climb show on our faces?
Ahhh we made it!
Ahhh we made it!
Our first view of St Georges Church. It certainly doesn't look that spectacular from the outside!
Our first view of St Georges Church. It certainly doesn’t look that spectacular from the outside!
The mosaic at the entrance
The mosaic at the entrance
We are all inside... and can't believe our eyes!
We are all inside… and can’t believe our eyes!
Mosiacs everywhere you look!
Mosiacs everywhere you look!
Even on the ceiling domes!
Even on the ceiling domes!
Just look at how amazing these ceiling are!
Just look at how amazing these ceiling are!
A closer view of just one big mosiac!
A closer view of just one big mosiac!
And look at the light fittings! hehe
And look at the light fittings! hehe
Even the floors are amazing! Works of Art!
Even the floors are amazing! Works of Art!
In the lower floor were the tombs and the mosaics are just as spectacular!
In the lower floor were the tombs and the mosaics are just as spectacular!
Looking one way!
Looking one way!
And now the other :-)
And now the other 🙂
Great Huh!
Great Huh!
A close up of one of the mosaics downstairs
A close up of one of the mosaics downstairs
Just superb!
Just superb!
I'm still amazed by this place!
I’m still amazed by this place!
A couple of tombs!
A couple of tombs!
The windows and decorations above the tombs
The windows and decorations above the tombs

Now after seeing this amazing place we went to visit the home of King Peter. Milos told us heaps of the history but I was lost in thought. I couldn’t get my mind of the fabulous church we had just visited! I guess I am way more stimulated by the visual rather than by listening to someone talk!

We finished off the lovely day with a superb meal together.

Celebrating the day together with a delightful evening meal.
Celebrating the day together with a delightful evening meal.
Very happy Judy and Len :-)
Very happy Judy and Len 🙂
I love this photo of Teresa and me :-)
I love this photo of Teresa and me 🙂

So now you can see why Topola, Serbia deserved it’s own blog post! Isn’t it just amazing! I hope you are inspired to go see it for yourself one day 🙂